
Apparently, I spend my vacations camping in the rain, exploring remote roads, looking for fossils, and trying to keep my dog from swimming in waterfalls. This year’s trip to Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument included all of that—and a few adventures I had not planned.
I believe I first visited the monument during an
extended Maine vacation in 2020. That year, the dogs and I drove about 1,600
miles and hiked 40 miles, all within Maine. We traveled up the coast, followed
the St. Croix River to Moosehorn National Wildlife Refuge, and then headed west
to the Monument and Gulf Hagas before returning home. At that time, the park
was still very young. I have enjoyed returning each year to see how it
develops. My most recent visit before this trip was in May 2025, and since then
the Katahdin overlook on the Auto Road had been renovated and several bridges
had been replaced.
Since 2020, I have spent a week each year in the
Katahdin area. A friend has a camp nearby, and I have stayed in her pond-side cottage for a couple of those visits. This year, however, I reserved a site at
Lunksoos Campground. It tends to rain on my vacations, and this trip was no
exception. Because the forecast was wet, I borrowed a tent from friends.
When I bought my 2014 Subaru Forester, I was happy
to discover that folding down the back seat created more sleeping space than I
had in my Jeep Liberty. My dog Mattie and I often slept in the car, and we kept
that as an option on Monday night. When I arrived at Lunksoos, though, I
discovered that the National Park Service (NPS), working with the Biodiversity
Research Institute (BRI), from Portland, Maine, a team of five biologists, were
conducting a bat survey. Mist nets and acoustic detectors had been set up right
beside the parking area. I later found out that the Park does not permit car
camping except in the Sand Bank Campsite. I complied by accident.

I had driven past Lunksoos before and had made my
reservation online, but I did not really understand the campground layout. I
had selected the “walk-in” site farthest from the parking area. It was peaceful
and kept me away from the researchers’ activity, but if I choose that site
again, I will bring some kind of wheels for moving my equipment.
The bat research team had five net stations: one
small mist net (single high), three large mist nets roughly 30 feet wide by 24
feet high (triple high), and a harp net. Each net had to be adjusted carefully
during the day so it would work properly. The mist nets were then furled and
raised to the tops of their poles so they would not interfere with traffic or
public use of the area. Reflectors at ground level helped the biologists find
the poles after dark.
The harp net was especially interesting. It is a
smaller device, an aluminum frame supporting three banks of vertical nylon
strings. When a bat hits the strings, it slides down into a canvas bag at the
bottom of the trap. When they climb up the sides of the bag the top has a thick
plastic cover that prevents them from climbing out. They will roost under this
cover until they are removed.
Sunset was around 8:10
p.m., so final preparations began at about 7:30. Three BRI employees worked
with two National Park biological science technicians. They wore masks,
bite-resistant gloves, and latex overgloves, which were changed between bats to
prevent the spread of white nose syndrome between the animals.
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| Note: Because this is a private blog, I have been given permission to use this photo of Park Ranger Marshall out of uniform loving on my dog. |
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| Sunset at the Lunksoos Boat Launch |
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| BRI Researchers thought they needed bug nets at first but quickly determined they were not necessary |
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| Beaver on the other side of the East Branch Penobscot River |
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| Bat Identification Bands |
The nets had to be checked every 10 minutes. If a
bat or another animal was caught, the net sometimes had to be lowered to make
removal easier. One such visitor was a flying squirrel. It is important to
remove these quickly as they chew through the nets. When an animal is caught at
the top of the net it can be lowered using a pulley-system that doesn’t require
removal of the poles.
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| Raising the 3-high mist nets |
After removal from a mist net or harp trap, each
bat was placed in a cloth bag. The bag protected the animal from injury and
allowed researchers to collect a guano sample while the bat waited to be
processed. The bags were hung on a clothesline and labeled with each bat’s
species, sex, and capture time. All bats were processed within 10–15 minutes.
If several bats were captured simultaneously, the nets were furled until the
“bat log” had been cleared. During processing, the team recorded additional
information, including the bat’s age, weight, and forearm length. These
measurements helped researchers evaluate the animal’s overall health. The team
also carefully monitored the bats for signs of white-nose syndrome, a disease
that does not harm humans but has killed millions of bats in North America.
White-nose syndrome has contributed to the listing of the northern long-eared
bat as endangered, while other species, including the tricolored bat, are also
threatened. The information collected by the team will support efforts to
protect and conserve these species.
To estimate age, the researchers stretched a wing
across a small light board and examined the wing joints. Darker joints
indicated greater calcification, which was associated with adult bats. Adults
were tagged, and every bat was released after the information was documented. I
watched the work on Monday and Tuesday nights and later noticed the reflector
and net at the Upper East Branch Campsite on Thursday. On Friday evening, I saw the team again
as I drove through the Contact Center parking area.
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| Removing a large moth from a mist net |
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| Working on the paperwork |
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| Collecting Data |
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| weighing the bat |
Placing the band
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| For the record |

I believe the survey lasted six nights: two nights
at Lunksoos, two at Upper East Branch, and two at the Contact Center. It was fascinating to
see how much coordination was involved in what might otherwise look like a
quiet evening in the woods.
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| Long exposure photo of fireflies. Different types of fire flies flash at different rates so here we may have a 4 flash one and a one flash. |
Although I drove Seboeis Road through the park several
times back and forth to the Campground, it is narrow in places and drops
sharply toward the river about 20' below. I found Contact Station Road more comfortable, and it
brought me into the campsites from the north. |
| Silver maple at Lunksoos Boat Launch |
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| Brown Eyed Butterfly at South Gate marsh |
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| South Gate |
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| Hiking the Deasey Pond Trail – one of my favorites |
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| Dewberry flowers |
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| Deasey Pond |
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| Pitcher plants and flowers |
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| My Sidekick, Mattie |
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| The trail to Deasey Pond runs over an esker for much of the way |
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| I love pipsissewa but don’t remember ever seeing it blooming before |

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| Auto Road, Lynx Pond |
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| Auto Road, Spruce Bog |
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Auto Road, Katahdin overlook
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Much of my planning for every trip comes from
Facebook. I follow several pages about different parts of the monument,
including Friends of the National Parks and local history groups. I often read
posts by Eric Hendrickson and especially enjoy his historical information. When
I began planning this visit, I sent him an email asking whether I could explore
with Eric and his wife, Elaine. I was delighted when he invited me to meet them
at the North Gate at 10 a.m. on Wednesday.  |
The drive to the North gate looked Ominous but it cleared up. Katahdin is out there somewhere.
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Eric and Elaine live in northern Maine, and Elaine
volunteers at the Francis Malcolm Science Center. Two other volunteers, Sue and
Sharon, joined us to learn more about the park and its history. Eric had been
part of the survey team that explored the area before the monument was
established, and he knows more about its history than many people who work
there.
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| Columnar jointed rhyolite – I think there is quite a bit of this nearby on Traveler Mountain in Baxter State Park |
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| Tree lungwort |
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Eric told us something cool about this layered rock but I don’t remember
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| Beaver deceiver preventing the water from flooding out the road |
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| Traveler Mountain from the road |
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| Eric hung this logging chain from a tree before this was a National Monument. Now the tree doesn’t want to let it go |
We parked at Haskell Gate and walked toward Haskell
Rock Pitch. Eric showed me where to look for fossils, arrowheads, and unusual
glacial erratics. He also told me about “Mother Nature’s Garden”, an area where
a woman once maintained a camp even after the paper company sold the land. |
| American toad along the trail |
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| Elaine and Eric |
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| Elaine and Eric with Sharon and Sue |
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| Joe Pye weed |
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| I don’t know that I’ve ever met wild swamp milkweed before |
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| I love the way water beads up on bigtooth aspen leaves |
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| I always try to take advantage of raindrop lenses |
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| Eric checking out some new plant species on Haskell Rock |
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| Sharon at Haskell Rock Pitch |
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| Portage Trail around Pitch |
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| Clubmoss lawn |
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| Wonderfully huge glacial erratics |
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| Tree Lungwort |
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| Sharon scrambling over some fallen trees |
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| Large glacial erratic is sedimentary rock – so cool! |
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| Eric and Sue headed back – Traveler Mtn in distance |
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| Haskell Hut. Eric and Elaine have reserved this hut in winter and cross-country-skied in |
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| Haskell Hut welcome committee |
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Mergansers on the River
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| Canada Geese on the River |
Mattie and I returned Thursday to see what we could discover using Eric’s advice. We walked to the possible fossil site, although I clearly need a hands-on lesson because I did not find anything I could confidently identify. We skipped the possible arrowhead area because it was high along the riverbank, and I did not want Mattie deciding to go swimming in the falls. When you find such treasures as fossils or arrowheads, please leave them in place. Federal law strictly prohibits damaging, collecting, or removing fossils (or historical artifacts) from any national park.
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| Overcast morning |
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| Swamp Milkweed |
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| Upper East Branch Campsite |
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Maybe the red flag marks the future location of a Bat net
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Oxbow Marsh
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I suspect the phrase “Ya can’t get theah from heah” could have been invented at Katahdin Woods and Waters. To travel from the South Gate to the North Gate, you have to leave the monument and use public roads. Since I was camping at the southern end, I drove north to explore with Eric and the others and then returned the next day to continue on my own, |
 | | This woodcock was sitting in the road but flew as I took the photo |
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| River views near Oxbow Picnic area |
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| I’ve never met this lichen before. How fun! |
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| First I noticed the reflector… |
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| …then I noticed the mist net at the top of the poles |
I had passed the Penobscot River Trail south of
Stacyville before and remembered that pets were prohibited. When I saw the
Seboeis Riverside Trail that looked like the same organization, I assumed the same restriction applied. I was very
pleased to turn into the parking lot to use the facilities and discover that dogs were allowed. It
was a warm day, so Mattie and I only walked from the road to Grand Pitch along
the beautifully maintained crushed-stone path. Just south of the waterfall is
Shin Brook Bridge, an impressive structure that looks as if it had to be lifted
into place by helicopter.
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| This trail follows the Seboeis River which meets the East Branch Penobscot in KaWW |
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| Black Swallowtail I found in the meadow at the Rt 11 overlook I call the “top of the world” |
My original plan was to visit Gulf Hagas on Friday,
so I had reserved the campsite only through Thursday night. We took our time
packing Friday morning. I still had not visited the Contact Center, but dogs
were not allowed inside, and I could not find a shady place to leave Mattie in
the car in the morning.
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| Last “swim” |
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| Lunksoos Boat Launch and Picnic Area |
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| Lunksoos Campground |
Anne had told us about Orin Falls, which sounded
wonderful. Unfortunately, I had not done enough research, and the trail was
longer than expected. We turned around before reaching the falls and hurried
back to the Contact Center, but driving times are always longer than I calculate for and I arrived five minutes before closing. Ranger
Elizabeth did not throw me out, but I also did not make her stay late. Next
time, I will plan better.  |
| X-rated Greater Fritillary butterflies |
During the week, I drove to the Katahdin Overlook
on the Auto Road several times for sunset. Views to the East are harder to find
in the monument, and I hoped that the new Gathering Circle at the Contact
Center would be a good spot for sunrise. Since I had no campsite for Friday
night and wanted to sleep as late as possible, I considered parking in a back
corner of the Contact Center parking lot overnight, (not realizing the no car
camping…) but when I arrived, the bat team was sitting in lawn chairs between
net checks, so I continued, past a bear, and out of the park to Sherman Lumber
Road, where I found a good clearing, settled in, and said, “Goodnight, world.”
Once again, I complied with the Park car camping rule by accident.
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| Saturday sunrise at the Gathering Circle |
Saturday morning brought an acceptable sunrise, and
after making breakfast at the Katahdin overlook, we headed south. |
| Last “make do” coffee |
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| The wintergreen is beginning to flower. |
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| I always think I should see a moose in Lynx Pond and always stop to look |
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| Roberts Road on the way South |
I remembered reading something, sometime in the
past, about possibly formalizing Roberts Road as an official entrance to the
monument from Millinocket. I had never driven that way, so I decided to
investigate. The road was in much better condition than Stacyville Road, and I
have since found several places on a map along that route that I would like to
explore.
I started
wandering home along back roads but eventually decided that if I was no longer
going to be in the monument, I simply wanted to get there. I took the highway,
paid the tolls, and started making plans for the next visit. Every trip to
Katahdin Woods and Waters gives me another reason to return.
A couple more no-location-needed photos. Enjoy!
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| Plant now known as Cucumber Root |
Many thanks to Rangers Marshall, Grant, Ann, and Elizabeth, Biodiversity Research Institute's Researchers Bri Frankia, and Ethan Gilardi, and especially Dr. Josh Guilbert (BRI)
So, until next time, Go capture some memories,
leave the trail better than you found it, and don't forget to take
off the lens cap! - Kate
Addendum – Shortly after this wonderful trip, I lost my
dog, Mattie, to an aggressive metastatic cancer that had already begun to
reveal itself at the park, though I did not recognize the signs at the time.
The hole in my heart will never fully heal, and he can never be replaced.
Still, I am beginning to make plans to welcome a new partner to my HodgePodge
Adventure Team.